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| ForgottenTour 27, the latest in the series that began with ForgottenTour 1 on June 1, 1999, met at the Grand Avenue station on the IND subway, and your webmaster was so flustered because of the incessant train noise, he forgot to introduce co-hostess Christina, the Queen of Queens. After conking your webmaster on the coconut with her scepter, all was forgiven and we stepped off at 12:30 sharp with forty revelers. Here's our account which will also be printed in the Juniper Park Civic Association magazine, the Juniper Berry:
GOOGLE MAP: ELMHURST and MASPETH
By KEVIN WALSH and CHRISTINA WILKINSON; all photos: STEVE GARZA unless noted
Could this be the first NYC tour ever staged in Elmhurst and Maspeth? NYC guidebooks ignore these busy, stable neighborhoods in western Queens. A lot of history, both treasured and threatened, is located here in a 30-block area. The neighborhoods have a lengthy and rich history: early British colonists in Maspeth, who first arrived in 1642, were forced within two years by the objections of the local Native Americans to flee. Some moved back to Manhattan, and some settled further east, to about where Queens Boulevard meets Broadway today; the new town was logically named Newtown.
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By the mid-1800s, horse cars and eventually streetcars began to bring in people from all over, and when Cord Meyer developed the area in the 1890s, he lobbied for a higher-class name...Elmhurst. Strangely, the IND subway, which arrived in 1936, keeps the Newtown name at a station, and Newtown High School retains the old moniker, as do a pair of roads in Astoria that were formerly main thoroughfares leading to the town. Even though De Witt Clinton summered in Maspeth and planned the Erie Canal here in the 1830s, Maspeth didn’t enjoy popularity until Mount Olivet Cemetery was opened in 1850; fertilizer and lumber works, rope and linoleum manufacturers soon followed along Newtown Creek, and Maspeth soon became the model of a company town for America’s swift 19th-Century period of industrialization.
On our Forgotten Tour of November 19th, 2006, we went in the opposite direction than the colonists, due to the vagaries of the NYC subway system, which was extended to Elmhurst in the 1930s, but never to Maspeth; we began in the heart of Elmhurst, the confluence of Queens Boulevard, Broadway and Grand Avenue, and made our way west almost to Maspeth’s western limit.
St. James Episcopal Church, Broadway/51st Avenue
The old St. James Episcopal Church parish house at Broadway and 51st Avenue is a relic of colonial rule, having been chartered by George III and erected in 1734: it is Elmhurst's oldest remaining building. It enjoyed a renaissance in 2004 when city and state grants totaling $400,000 were employed to make over the exterior, complete with replicas of the hall's original adornments. Its clock tower, which blew down in a storm in 1883, has never been replaced, however. Its replacement, the “new” St. James, was built a block to the north in 1848, but it burned down long ago and an A-framed brick building has taken its place. Old St. James is now a community center, welcoming Alcoholics Anonymous meetings, as well as boy and girl scout troops.
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Dutch Reformed Church of Newtown, Broadway/51st Avenue
Directly across the street from Old St. James is the Georgian Greek Revival Dutch Reformed Church of Newtown, wedding-cake white with Tuscan-style columns. It has been here since 1831, but it replaced an earlier edifice dating to 1735, and the ancient stones in its churchyard attest to the age of this congregation. Here, also, Corona Avenue begins an almost comically zigzag route to Flushing Meadows.
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Newtown High School,
48-01 90th Street
CBJ Snyder’s Flemish Renaissance Revival masterpiece with its 169-foot tall, 5-peaked tower, seemingly lording it over its low-rise neighbors like a castle in a medieval fiefdom, was completed in 1921. The high school itself was founded in 1894 and had a graduating class of one in 1900. Today the school educates as many as 4500 students. It can also make a surprising view when you follow O’Connell Court, an L-shaped alley on 50th Avenue west of 90th Street; it seems to lord over the little alley like a medieval castle.
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Horse Brook,
Justice Avenue/56th Avenue
Horse Brook was once an over-ground stream running from Justice Avenue and 56th Avenue west to about Codwise Place and Grand Avenue. It has long been diverted underground since Elmhurst was built up. Justice Avenue runs along the path of an ancient railway, the White Line, which diverged from the Flushing and North Shore Railroad in the mid-1800s. The Flushing and North Shore was absorbed into the LIRR, while the White Line went extinct.
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| A Victorian-era home stands nearby that must have been here when horses watered in the brook, and trains rattled on long-vanished tracks.
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Town Burying Ground, 56th Avenue and 92nd Street
The site of the Newtown Playground had been used as a cemetery from 1730 through the 19th century. Some of the earliest founders of Newtown are buried here, including members of the Moore and Fish families. The city converted the land into a park in 1935. In 1997, the park was redesigned, with open green spaces created over areas that contain remains, and the original cemetery wall was reconstructed with traditional materials. The ring of cherry and beech trees found here was planted to memorialize the townspeople buried in the lot who have no markers to identify them.
Jamaica Savings Bank, Queens Boulevard at 55th Avenue
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The arrival of the World’s Fair in Flushing Meadows in 1964 was symbolic of the Swingin’ Sixties, space-race go-go attitude the country had at the time; the war in Vietnam had not yet become an albatross and there seemed to be a boundless enthusiasm about the future and the wonders it would produce. Architects seemed to get the message as well and it was then that several extraordinary buildings were produced along Queens Boulevard.
George Jetson would feel at home zipping by the sweep-angled, glass-fronted Jamaica Savings Bank near 55th Avenue, completed in 1968 by the William F. Cann Company, which resembles a Stealth bomber on one side and a modern cathedral on the other. Its parabolic-roofed, 43-foot height is attained by thin-shelled concrete that enables support without interior columns. At present it is a branch of North Fork and, alas, the City Council voted to reverse the decision of the Landmarks Preservation Commission to protect it, and rumor has it that some local Philistines would like it torn down in favor of a more conventionally designed building.
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The Historic Districts Council:
Despite support from the community board, the professional and civic community and even the local Council Member Helen Sears, the City Council chose to disapprove of the Jamaica Savings Bank’s landmark status; stating that the building did not rise to the appropriate standard of a landmark. In doing so, the Council decided to disregard months of effort and research by the Landmarks Preservation Commission, which constitute a major expenditure of resources for the small city agency.
This act is even more troubling by what it reveals about the bias against modern architecture. Another stated reason for the denial was a disdain for the design as well as the comparative youth of the building. However, the Landmarks Law states clearly that the landmarks should possess “a special character, historical or aesthetic interest or value as part of the development, heritage or cultural characteristics of the city, state or nation.” Taste does not factor into the decision and as for age, the Law is equally clear that any structure over 30 years old is potentially eligible for landmark designation. As the LPC’s Designation Report states that the building is “unique and memorable” and furthermore, that it was designed during the bank’s centennial and the 1964 World’s Fair in Flushing, which celebrated striking architectural forms and dramatically-engineered structures. Through its design and its materials, as documented in the designation report, this small bank building is definitely proven to be an exemplary expression of the mid-century architectural zeitgeist.
Built in 1966-68 for the Jamaica Savings Bank, this building exemplifies the move towards expressive new forms that had been made possible by recent advances in building technology, notably in reinforced concrete shells. Today it still serves its original function as a bank, and is a bold and striking example of modern architecture on Queens Boulevard.
Elmwood Theatre, Hoffman Drive and 57th Avenue
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| The Elmwood Theater, Hoffman Drive and 57th Avenue, isn't endangered, but the building as we know it certainly is. Its current owner, the Rock Community Church, is stripping away the building’s former gorgeous terra cotta facing and replacing it with stucco. The theatre dates to 1928 when it was built in the golden age of cinema construction by architect John Schalditz as the Queensboro. In 1948, it was named for its neighborhood, Elmhurst, and nearby Woodhaven Boulevard. It showed its last feature in 2002. Similarly, Rego Park’s Trylon Theatre in 2005 suffered from similar treatment, as its mosaic renderings of the original Trylon, a symbol of the original 1939-40 World’s Fair in Flushing Meadows, were jack-hammered to oblivion; Queens is a borough that rewards its latter-day developers, not its rich history.
(Above: some of the terra-cotta trim that is being removed.)
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| Ornamentation detail on pediment. |
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Hoffman Drive and 57th Avenue is an old crossroads that dates beck to the colonial era: Queens Boulevard has been known by many names including Thomson Avenue and Hoffman Boulevard, after a late 19th Century NYC mayor. In 1910 the route was straightened, leaving a slight bend orphaned between 57th Avenue and Woodhaven Boulevard; this became Hoffman Drive. Queens Blvd. attained its present multi-lane width in the mid-1920s. 57th Avenue is the former Hempstead Plank Road. Hempstead is the Nassau County town just east of the city line; it was formerly a part of Queens until 1898, when Nassau was formed.
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This handsome brick building on Queens Boulevard near 51st Avenue was once the largest Elks Lodge on the East Coast, with 60 rooms, bowling alleys, billiards, a ladies’ lounge, and a 50 foot bar. The Elks don't own the old place any more: it's been sold to the New Life Fellowship, a Korean church organization, but the Elks remain as tenants. The Ballinger Company designed the granite, limestone and brick structure dominated by a now-verdigris-covered elk at the front entrance. For a couple of decades, Extreme Championship Wrestling (ECW) bouts had been held here featuring some of the legends of “sports entertainment” such as the Sandman, the late Eddie Guerrero, and Mick Foley. photo: KW
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First Presbyterian Church of Newtown, Queens Boulevard at 54th Avenue
This congregation dates back to 1652. Rev. John Moore (whose descendant, Clement Clarke Moore, penned the poem, “The Night Before Christmas”) was the first minister of the congregation. The church was involved in the signing of the Flushing Remonstrance, which was instrumental in establishing freedom of religion in the colonies. The church building has had many incarnations. The current Gothic style brownstone and granite structure was built in 1895 with $70,000 left to the church in the will of one of its elders. The architect was Frank A. Collins. The cornerstone, laid in 1893, contains a time capsule.
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Elks Lodge 878, Queens Blvd. and 51st Avenue
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| NY Sports Express:
On Saturday, Nov. 29, USA Pro Wrestling held their "End of an Era" event at the historic Elks Lodge. For those of you new to wrestling, or who never leave Manhattan, the Elks Lodge is exactly as it sounds: a smoky hall filled with surly, drunken men. What set this Elks Lodge apart from any other, however, is that many of the surly, drunken men were actually professional wrestlers. Read the whole thing
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| Past and future on Grand and Kneeland Avenues. From 1880-1920 NYC's side streets were built up with attached houses like this cluster, but modern-day developers' sensibilities, as well as cheap budgets, prohibit anything as esthetically wholesome from being built in the early 21st Century. Therefore, much of Queens will look like the object on the right by 2010. (We cannot call it a "building.") photo: KW |
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St. Adalbert Church,
52-29 83rd Street south of Grand Avenue
St. Adalbert's was founded as a parish in November 1892 by a small group of Polish immigrants to respond to the needs of the Polish-speaking people of Elmhurst, Maspeth, and the surrounding areas. The church, at the peak of one of Elmhurst’s higher hills, can be seen from Woodside. (It's also where the Queen of Queens went to school.)
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Matthews Houses, Grand Avenue between 79th Street and Calamus Avenue
Where Maspeth meets Elmhurst is a large group of handsome yellow-brick 2 and 3 story buildings. These are the Mathews Company row houses built by Louis Allmendinger, a protegé of Gustave Mathews, who built block after block of row houses in nearby Ridgewood between 1900 and 1920. These houses went up in 1930 and use the same Kreischer brick the Ridgewood houses have.
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Gas Tank Park and Rock, Grand Avenue west of 80th Street
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| Juniper Park Civic Association president Bob Holden (accompanied by your grinning webmaster and the Queen of Queens) relates the story of how the Keyspan gas tanks site became a public park.
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For over eight decades as first trolleys plied Grand Avenue and then commuters drove along the LIE heading west, drivers could always assure their location with the help of two gigantic red and white steel structures. After the tanks were taken apart piece by piece by 2001, Mayor Bloomberg purchased the site 2 years later from Keyspan for $1 for use as a public park. In 2006, the nascent park received an unexpected addition: a 7-ft. tall, 10-ton boulder unearthed in sewer line construction in Fort Greene, courtesy of Queens Parks Commissioner Dottie Lewandowski, who requested the rock after hearing the sewer line contractor planned to discard it. The new park will be constructed in 2007.
Two other huge gas tanks on Maspeth Avenue in Brooklyn just west of Newtown Creek were imploded dramatically in August 2001.
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| Grand Avenue streetscape near 73rd Street: chiropractor, Greek Orthodox church, dancing school; a nice pair, houses and cars.
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Garlinger Triangle, Grand and 57th Avenues at 72nd Street
At the center of this sitting area is a monument honoring all the servicemen from the neighborhood who died in WWI combat. It was designed by architect Paul C. Hunder and constructed in 1931. The triangle was named in memory of Walter A. Garlinger, the first resident of Maspeth who fell in the war.
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Maspeth Town Hall, 72nd Street, north of Grand Avenue
This building was a one-room schoolhouse, having been built in 1897 and closing in 1932. Subsequently, a local girls’ club and the Works Progress Administration sporadically used it until 1936, when it became the 112th police precinct. It was used as such until 1971. It became abandoned and fell into disrepair until a coalition of concerned citizens saved it in 1972 and turned it into a community center, which it still is today. Under the presidency of Tony Nunziato, Maspeth Town Hall was completely renovated so that it may continue to serve the needs of the people of Maspeth for decades to come.
ABOVE: the Queen of Queens and her subjects. photo: Bob Holden
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Maspeth Theater, Grand Avenue and 69th Place
The Maspeth Theater was built ca 1927 and showed movies until 1965 when its use as a movie house came to an end. Judy Garland performed there live before becoming a star of the screen. The theater’s lobby was adapted for retail use and the auditorium was converted into a bingo hall.
Cinematreasures.org: The Maspeth is located at 69-20 Grand Avenue and originally had 1,161 seats. It was built by Small & Strausberg (S&S Theatres), one of the many circuits taken over by William Fox circa 1927-29. The Grand Avenue entrance was eventually converted to retail, but the auditorium became a bingo hall with an entrance around the corner. photo: KW
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9/11 War Memorials and Manhattan View, Grand Avenue at 69th Street
This intersection is considered to be the center of town; therefore, it is a fitting site for Maspeth Memorial Square. The square contains war memorials, the town Christmas tree, a huge American flag and a memorial to 9/11 victims from Maspeth. Engine Company 288/Haz Mat 1, located just north of the square, lost 19 men on 9/11/01, the most of any firehouse in the city. The town gathered to watch the horror unfold from this site on that horrible day. The site offers a commanding view of almost the entire Manhattan skyline.
Nearby was the depot for Maspeth's horsecars, its first mass transit. When Robert Moses scythed Maspeth asunder to create the Long Island Expressway in the 1950s, the car barn was razed.
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Haflinger House, Brown Place and 58th Avenue
Gustav Haflinger, Maspeth’s town butcher, built the green and beige, stick style house in 1873. Subsequent owners of his house have taken great care to keep it in good condition, down to the paint detailing on the railings. Several houses along Brown Place and 58th Avenue exhibit one-of-a-kind wooden craftsmanship. Many sport "for sale" signs, and developers who find one-family houses unsuitable may wish to tear them down; visit this block while you can! photo: CW
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| Anton Fausner Wheelwright, Grand Avenue and Hamilton Place
Anton Fausner's wheelwright and wagonmaker's shop from when horses and carriages were the main method of transportation.
The wheelwright's ground floor later housed Maspeth Auto Parts, and several ancient signs from that incarnation remain (Brakes, clutches, pinfitting). It was razed in June 2006, and has been an empty lot since.
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Griff’s Hardware, Grand Avenue and Hamilton Place
This location was once Wielback's Grocery, one of the town’s first supermarkets, before it became Griff's Hardware more than 90 years ago. They recycled their classic neon sign when they converted the store into a laundering business in 2000. The laundromat closed earlier this year and the property is in the process of demolition to make way for a financial institution. When the siding was removed, the original wooden structure was revealed.
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Queens County Hotel, Grand Avenue and Remsen Place
The building now housing the Grand Florist at ground level was once the Queens County Hotel. It was built in 1851 along what was then Grand Street, an old colonial road. Farmers and tradesmen would rest here when hauling goods between Williamsburg and towns further east in Queens.
Mount Olivet Cemetery, Grand Avenue and Remsen Place
This garden cemetery was founded as an Episcopal Cemetery in 1850 and opened to all faiths the following year. One of the founders, James Maurice, was a U.S. Congressman, Maspeth landholder and founder of St. Saviour’s Church. He is buried here along with his 2 brothers and 3 sisters, none of which ever married. Prince Matchabelli and Helena Rubenstein of cosmetic fame are also buried here, as is gangster Jack “Legs” Diamond. |
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| Enchanted Florist, 65-10 Grand Avenue
We stopped for a few minutes at Enchanted Florist, located on Grand Avenue just west of Mount Olivet Cemetery. Tony Nunziato is the owner of this establishment and he provided refreshments for the ForgottenTourists, including freshly made apple cider, soda, coffee, donuts, cake, pretzels, chips, fresh fruit, and cookies. A lover of local history, Mr. Nunziato allowed the group to view his collection of artifacts from the Maspeth area, including a belt belonging to a 19th century volunteer firefighter, a ticket to a fair at a local picnic park and authentic old maps and history books. Participants got a kick out of Tony’s antique cash register and greenhouse. The store has always been a flower shop; a German immigrant who was forced to move from Manhattan due to discrimination during the height of WWI originally owned it.
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Trolley Sign, intersection of Grand and Flushing Avenues at 64th Street
Resuming along Grand Avenue, we passed two signs erected by the Maspeth Chamber of Commerce. One welcomes to Maspeth those coming from Ridgewood and Brooklyn. The other sign depicts a trolley, with arrows made of tracks directing traffic to either Flushing or Grand Avenues. Both were colonial roads and trolleys traveled upon them decades ago.
Though Flushing Avenue doesn't reach Flushing, it leads to a maze of roads that does, and roads were named that way in the 19th Century.
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Transfiguration Church and Lithuanian Wayside Cross shrine, Perry Avenue east of 64th Street
This replica of a Lithuanian roadside shrine, contributed by the Knights of Lithuania Council 110, sits in the churchyard of Transfiguration R.C. Church. The first church was built in 1909 to serve the swelling population of Lithuanian immigrants. The present structure dates from 1962. Lithuanian folk art elements adorn the inside of the church. The Lithuanian phrase above the doors, Mano Namai Maldos Namai, means “My house is a house of prayer.” Multiple masses are still celebrated in the Lithuanian language each weekend. The church also fronts on Clinton Avenue, one block to the north.
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Sign, Perry Avenue east of 64th Street |
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Polish-American National Hall, Clinton Avenue and 64st Street
As early as 1890, Polish immigrants chose Maspeth in which to settle. In 1921, the Polish National Home (or in Polish, “Polski Dom Narodowy”) was founded in order to teach younger generations about their Polish heritage. This building was erected in 1934. Members of this organization opened the 1939 World’s Fair, dedicated Maurice Park and participated in the opening of the Kosciuszko Bridge. Christina’s maternal grandparents and great-grandparents were very active in the organization. Maspeth has welcomed a new wave of Polish immigrants over the last decade. Storefronts along Grand and Maspeth Avenues reveal that the Polish tongue is the most popular foreign language in town, and their food may be the most popular cuisine.
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| St. Stanislaus Kostka R.C. Church, Maspeth Avenue at 61st Street
Neo-Romanesque building dramatically turned diagonally to the corner; punctuated by gilded and polychromed brick. Built 1913, same year as nearby Holy Cross.
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| Holy Cross R.C. Church, 61-21 56th Road
The 5-peaked copper verdrigris steeple echoes Newtown High School (see above). Built 1913.
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| Maspeth Avenue and 59th Street
Under all the layers of siding, there's a cupola'ed Victorian-era house.
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Former Hebrew National sign, 56th Avenue facing LIE
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| Maspeth Avenue to 56th Drive east of 58th Place
Western Maspeth was formerly called Melvina, and this tiny one-block street is the last remnant of the neighborhood.
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Clinton Hall, 58th Street and 56th Road
In the first half of the 20th century, Maspeth residents danced their cares away at Clinton Hall. Its wrap-around interior balconies and grand chandelier are seared into the minds of older generations. It was built in the 1920s and is being used now as a laboratory and for industrial purposes. Judge Joseph Sackett built a two-story wood frame mansion with porches around both levels in the area behind Clinton Hall in 1750...
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| Clinton Mansion, 1905
Governor DeWitt Clinton, who held every important office in New York State at one time or another in the early 1800s, planned the Erie Canal from this Maspeth waterside retreat, which he had inherited from his father-in-law, wealthy Manhattan merchant, Walter Franklin. Citizens converted the grounds of the Sackett-Clinton House into a park around 1910, but could not keep the house from burning down in 1933. The dance hall is the house’s namesake. The entire area is now covered with industry, revealing no trace of the mansion that was once there. photo: Queensborough Public Library
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Queenshead Tavern, ca.1905
The Queenshead Tavern once stood at the intersection of Maurice and Maspeth Avenues. During the Revolutionary War it was a favorite meeting place for British soldiers. photo: Queens Borough President's Office
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Lost in the Fifties Tonight
The western end of Maspeth is where all the streets numbered in the 50s come together, and indeed, 56th Street, Road, Terrace and Drive all intersect, a block from 58th Street. Busy 56th Terrace, Maurice Avenue, and Garfield Avenue were built atop the route of the long-defunct Flushing Railroad.
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Maurice Family home, Rust Street and 57th Road
James Maurice (1814-1884), a prominent lawyer in NYC, moved to maspeth in 1840 and built a mansion on Maspeth Avenue west of the railroad tracks. In 1850 he was elected to the NY State assembly as a Democrat, to the House of Representatives in 1852 and to the Assembly again in 1866, this time as a Republican. He owned a 72-acre forest that, after his death, was preserved as parkland and a nature sanctuary. By 1922, however, streets were laid out and the woods were gone.
The Maurice family home, after James’ time, still stands, missing its original ornamental pond. Its former address was 1 Hill Street. A lovely old bluestone sidewalk sits in front of the house. James Maurice’s brother and two surviving sisters lived in this house; distant relatives sold the house after the death of the last surviving sibling, Sarah Maurice, in 1909.
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St. Saviour’s Church, Rust Street and 57th Drive
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Built by renowned architect Richard Upjohn in 1847, St. Saviour’s Church is one of Maspeth’s last ties to its rural past. Prior to the industrial revolution, this area was considered to be “the country,” and many wealthy Manhattanites owned summer homes here. Congressman James Maurice, local farmer John Van Cott, Garrit Furman, author of “The Maspeth Poems” and Judge David S. Jones, son-in-law of De Witt Clinton, were founders of the church, which ministered to the community until 1995 when dwindling church membership forced it to close. The Episcopal Church sold it to a Korean Methodist congregation who worshipped there for 8 years before selling it to a foreign developer who has a plan to demolish the entire property and erect homes upon it. JPCA is fighting to save the church and turn it into a cultural complex, as was done at Maspeth Town Hall. |
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| 1900 view of St. Saviour's. The tower and vestibule were severely damaged in a 1970 fire set as a prank by three 12-year-old boys. Old Queens in Early Photographs, Seyfried/Asadorian
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| Christina explains the story of St. Saviour's to Forgotten Fans (left) and confers with Tony Nunziato (left) and Forgotten Fans. She has spearheaded the movement to save St. Saviour's as historian of the Juniper Park Civic Association.
 The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: Christina's account of the shenanigans behind St. Saviour's precarious situation
Sign this petition to Mayor Bloomberg to save the 1847 church
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